Boathouse Plans Ideas

Well chumps have fun look like fools and idiots with your gravy holder houses.


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On the ICW

Having completed some chores, like lashing my sidelight box into the rigging, it was definitely time to move on. One problem: getting back up the Manatee River. When the wind has blown at all, it has blown straight down the river. Not only does this make it difficult to beat out of the river, it has made the anchorage darn uncomfortable at times.

Manatee River anchorage -- open to the north west
photo jalmberg

When I looked at this photo, I thought to myself, "No wonder Im covered with black and blue marks! I gotta get out of here!"

Its funny how you can suddenly see something in a photo that you have been staring at with your naked eyes... Aint the human brain odd?

Anyway, it was clear that getting out of the Manatee River and moving on to my next stop would take some planning.

One issue: the next reliable inlet on the Gulf is Venice, and Venice is 60 nm away, if you include getting out of the Manatee River, and into an anchorage in Venice. And that is too far to make during one daylight run. I could do an overnight leg, but with the fluky wind forecasts, and an engine that seems to be running worse and worse, I hesitate...

I havent mentioned my engine problems, yet. The Blue Moon came with a 16hp outboard motor. It seemed to run well enough at first, and it still starts easily, but for the last few days, it has only run well at low power. As soon as you give it some gas, it stalls out. Not good for getting in and out of sticky places like inlets and wind-blown anchorages.

In fact, the engine did not have enough oumph to power out of the anchorage above. I know, because I tried.

In puzzling over what to do next, I started looking at the Intercoastal Waterway (ICW), that provides an inside passage all the way south from Tampa. I started talking to other sailors who I met at the marina (amazing the conversations you can strike up while doing laundry!), about the ICW, and whether a boat like mine could make it through.

Universally, everyone said "Of course you can make it through!"

But looking at a chart, I had two worries: 1) it looked like Id have to motor a lot, which was problematical with my cranky engine and 2) the ICW is criss-crossed with bridges that are too low for a sailboat to cruise under. There are no such bridges on Long Island Sound, so I had absolutely no experience with opening bridges.

After going back and forth on this question for a couple days, I finally decided to try the ICW for the best reason of all: Id never been on it before, and new experiences is the whole point of this trip.

So last night, I set my alarm for 05:30, when I expected the wind to be minimal, and lifted anchor as soon as I could make out the markers in the pre-dawn light.

There was no wind and the tide was slack, so I was able to make a crisp 3 knots up the river and was on Tampa Bay in a bit more than an hour.

The south-bound ICW through Anna Maria Sound was right around the corner, so quite quickly, I was motoring towards my first bascule bridge, with no small amount of trepidation...

Anna Maria Sound, south of Tampa Bay, and my first bascule bridge (right side of map)


What is a bascule bridge?

Movable bridge animation 
Wikimedia Commons

Cute, eh? I wish I had that much free time...

Anyway, here is a pic of my very first opening bridge, taken at the last moment on my iPhone, which luckily I had in my pocket...

What am I doing taking a picture, instead of moving briskly through the opening?
photo jalmberg

After taking this photo, I realized I should have been moving towards the bridge, rather than fiddling with my phone, so I gave the engine a bit more gas and headed in.

Bad idea! Just as I was entering the bridge opening, my engine stalled. Luckily, by then the other boats had passed through, so I had the whole opening to myself as leaned over the back of the boat to restart the engine.

Whew... that little crisis surmounted, I made it through without knocking down any bridge piers. I gave the bridge tender a slightly embarrassed wave. He just shook his head at me from  his booth, far above...

Adventure spirit aside, I seriously started thinking about doing something about that engine. This initial thought was reinforced after talking to my uncle Marty on the phone at lunch time.

If anyone is responsible for my boat building/sailing adventures, its probably Marty. He emigrated as a sail maker from Germany around 1960, married my mothers sister, and got my father -- and me -- into sailing. He has a vast well of experience to draw from, and after hearing my engine laments, urged me to get it looked at, ASAP. I resolved to do so.

Luckily, for most of the afternoon, I was able to sail down the broad waterway, leading to Sarasota Bay, thus sparing my engine (and me!) any more abuse.

I even had a little race with another boat heading down Sarasota Bay. Even flying just the big main sail, the Blue Moon kept up with this production sailboat for quite a long time.

Racing down Sarasota Bay, towards Sarasota on the horizon
photo jalmberg

We sailed all the way into Sarasota, under the big new Ringling Bridge (named after the circus family, that had its headquarters in Sarasota for many years), and right into the anchorage, just south east of the bridge. We came to anchor without firing up the engine at all, all afternoon.

Now thats the kind of sailing I like. And overall, Id say my first day on the ICW was a big success. Much easier, and more enjoyable than Id expected.

Ill be using it more in the future, but my next priority is to get that engine fixed.

Sarasota -- the shore is closer than it looks on this photo... maybe 200 yards
photo jalmberg


>>> Next Episode: Shakedown



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Plywood Boat Plans The World Standard Self Help Advice


For a very long time now, most ship plans require the use of plywood. It is a main constituent with setting up excellent boats all over the place in the world plus will be therefore considered your standard. Most cruiser architects that sort of timber as a result of that ease of make use of that it really is there. And for this reason, this can be well-known having amateur boatmen as well as builders. In classes and schools that educate boat creating being a leisure activity as well as trade with their students, this real wood is needed as the principal tool. There are numerous very simple action by step ways which in turn a person could carry out to develop your own very own ship at home. It is definitely not only a endeavor that cannot possibly be accomplished, the idea something containing happen to be performed by way of lots of men over the world because a lengthy time. So is it possible that most of that you need is the suitable tools, an effective guide, whether hum an being and also your infants ebook and the correct list of tools.

Nearly all plywood ship ideas complete a smart use of photographs and diagrams to be able to show different phases which might be present in that construction of a ship or maybe some sort of tiny boat. One can understand the majority of the hence identified as complicated requisites by looking through and being familiar with all these figures. All instructions and also ebooks have them. They guide you with the first measures that are often your trickiest on the remaining steps of which include things like polishing and also maintenance. The earliest step is actually normally lofting which in turn needs a fine hand to utilize plus excellent human body coordination. This can be followed by alternative main steps just like selecting the most appropriate materials, framing tactics and resources that are usually required, using epoxy resin and also fiberglass with strengthening the actual boat. Other methods also involve steps known as the cool molding method, stitch and also g lue methods, signing up for outlets with cable tv and more points which are uneasy even though building a create of fashion as well as worth.

Not merely is the magnificence of the deliver important, but its functionality capability and endurance. In your longer run, it can be issues like normal water proofing, hull strength, along with these popular features of this craft that could matter. If you dont stick to making your vessel powerful, you could possibly at the same time kiss this good bye because them it can not necessarily manage to pull through the tough oceans and even your pond inside city. Even although there are actually insurances offered which might pull you out there coming from paying high damage plus costs in the event in a good accident, acquiring a significant insurance maintain which reimburse the majority of the exact quantity will probably be pretty moment consuming. Finding the best insurer, whose policy meets the needs you have and at the similar time, not really as well expensive might be a further task necessitating difficult work. After all, meeting your goal spent time plus work on a nice gorgeous motorboat will want to prevent every problems desires to occur.

In any case, in case you are people whom provides recently turn into interested in making your special vessel, or maybe youre a reliable post builder, plywood boat projects go a long way to generate your process easier.


For additional info on Sailboat Plans visit http:/sailboatplansinc.com where you will find all the information you will ever need.
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Model Sailboat Plans

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Jangadas A Brazilian Fishing Craft


In my last post, I said Id discuss the jangada in the next post. Here we are at the next post, but first, some news.

My employment as an editor at McGraw-Hill has ended due to a layoff. I had been acquiring and editing books on boating for the International Marine imprint, and on other outdoor sports like hiking, camping, paddlesports, RVing, skiing, etc., for Ragged Mountain Press. These imprints are being scaled back for strategic reasons, and so our Rockport, Maine, office was closed. Both imprints will apparently continue, but publishing far fewer books each year, so the two managers were retained, and all the line-workers let go.

Hence, I am now the proud proprietor of YOUR NAME HERE Communications, offering writing, editing, publishing consulting, and public relations services to private individuals (read: authors), small businesses, and publishers. Ill have a website up and running in a week or two, but if anyone wants information now, please feel free to contact me through this blog. Your query wont appear in the blog.

On to the good stuff. The jangada had its precolumbian origins as a raft plying nearshore waters on Brazils northeast coast. (All this is per
The Last Sailors: The Final Days of Working Sail, discussed in the previous post.) Soon after European contact, the demand for fish increased, and a sailing rig was added, but in its basic "log" form (more on this distinction soon), its been unchanged for 400 years. It is a sailing raft built of pueba logs, lashed and pegged together, and sporting a rig with quite a large mailsail and (from what I can tell from the books photos), sometimes a tiny jib. The mast angles forward very sharply, and the boom angles upward at the stern, so that the mainsail takes the shape of an isosceles triangle resting on its apex. Theres a surprisingly sophisticated 11-position mast step that allows the masts angle to be changed by a considerable amount, no doubt shifting the amount of weather/lee helm, but otherwise, the jangada is about as simple as a craft can be. The jangadieros, or jangada fishermen, take these boats 30 miles offshore in search of market fish, with the logs awash the whole way. Steering is by way of an oar.

Crews are often two or three, and according to author Neil Hollander, its a firm tradition that no one speaks during the whole 12 to 16 hours that the boat is fishing. How wonderful! No office-cooler crap about the Final Four, the presidential primaries, or American Idol!

The book also discusses a plank-built variant, the jangada tabua ("jangada of planks," pictured in the previous post) that hardly seems like a variant, and is evidently a different craft altogether with a similar name and milieu. From the photo and the books description, it is clearly more of an open boat than a raft. It came into being when appropriate logs for rafts became scarce and sawn lumber became available as a feasible alternative. Probably, the name jangada was retained because the new boat was used by the same population, who knew fishing boats only by the name of jangada -- to them, the word didnt refer to a particular type, but was the equivalent of "fishing boat."


When Hollander wrote about the jangada more than 20 years ago, they were extremely scarce, having been elbowed out by more efficient fishing craft. It would be interesting to know if any of the jangadiero villages still exist, and if they still use the log-built type.

The photo of a model log-type jangada above is from Wikipedia by Wenn du Benutzer WHell. Sorry, Herr WHell, Ive copied your credit, but I dont know German and cant provide your name properly, but many thanks for granting use through Wikipedia.

The product links below? Well, there arent many jangada-related books or other products available, so well have to make do with "rafts." Who knew that Jules Verne wrote a raft book? What raft could be more storied, goried, and romantic than the Medusas? And the childrens book The Raft looks lovely, doesnt it?


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Boat Shelter Plans

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Freemodelboatplans

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Beachcruising

Ive been spending way too much time thinking about boat design lately, but I suppose its justified, since Im trying to decide what my next boat will be.  Ive been looking at a wide variety of sailing vessels, from heavy, offshore-capable monohulls to small multihull beachcruisers.  Sometimes it helps to get just get out on the water to think, so I spent some time a few days ago paddling my kayak around Deer Island, just south of Biloxi.  Kayaks are just so simple and quick to launch, and easy to pull ashore most anywhere you care to stop.  This is my Arctic Tern 17, one of my favorites that I built about 14 years ago:


While there are some large, shoal-draft cruising sailboats that can go right up the shore and safely dry out at low tide, this Endeavor 37 Ketch that was also beached on the island is definitely not one of them:


This sailing yacht was obviously left hard aground by the storm surge of recent Hurricane Isaac.  Shes a good 40 or 50 yards from the waters edge now, and at 20,000 lbs. displacement, will not be easy to refloat.  I dont know where she was before the storm and how she came to break loose and end up on the beach at Deer Island, but seeing this is a good reminder of just one of the things that the owners of small, beachcruising sailboats and sea kayaks dont have to worry about.
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1 4 Tonners

Design 2065 Sail Plan - 1/4 Tonner

We received the following note from a blog follower:

Your blog has recently shown a great variety of S & S designs. Could you review some of the quarter ton designs done by S & S (skipping the designs already mentioned on the blog publications section) ? I seem to recall a double chine 26 1/4 ton which caught my eye. Thank you, Tom

Heres a short list of all 1/4-tonners from the firm (design, year, class, LOA):
2065, 1970, She 27 Class, 26.00
2065-C1, 1971, Yankee 26 Class, 26.00
2135, 1972, Northstar 500 Class, 24.98
2135-C1, 1972, Kato Builders, 24.98
2135-C2, 1972, Northstar 600 Class, 25.98
2135-C3, 1972, Revised Northstar 500, 25.98
2235, 1975, One-Off, 27.83
2235-C1, 1975, One-Off, 27.83
2271, 1975, One-Off, 21.42
(Please note that when you see a "C-1" or "C-2" following the design number, that signifies a "copy" of a particular design)

Here are some more drawings and images of 1/4 tonners.

Design 2135 - Northstar 500

Design 2235 Sail Plan - 1/4 Tonner

So reader I am sorry to report but I can find no evidence of a 1/4 tonner with hard chines. Heres a typical 1/4 tonner Lines Plan which shows the shape.

Design 2065 Lines Plan
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Allez Ooop over the wall and off to the Yacht Club

Today was get the boat over the wall day.... Some photos....

In our backyard. Tiller dry-fitted. Ready for popping over the wall.

Looking pretty racy!  But she aint... shes heeeavy....


Noel and our "Wall-jumping Jig".  Thanks to Steve W for the idea.

Marcus supervises making path for the boat to the wall...

Arlene with Marcus and Basil: respectively Chief and Deputy technical advisers....
In the yard, before the troops descend....

..... and here they are, the "Wall-jumping crew":
L to R: Arlene, Peter S, Kevin McL, Chris, Kevin D, Ian,
Fat Chan, Win, King, Rocky, Peter C, Paolo, Noel (obsc), Bucket, Wolfie.

Wofie and Paolo looking critically at something... I think its the gudgeon
& pintle, which are not correct, I know: just there to fit the tiller.  This pair was the
only one in Hong Kong.  I have a set of three on order to fit later.
First move of the boat: off the cradle onto the ground for a rest...
L-R: Wolfie, Paolo, Bucket, Peter S, Chris, Kevin D, Kevin McL.

Another rest stop.  Boat has been turned around, facing wall, while we
position the cradle on some supports ready for the final push....
Kevin gives an early -- premature? -- "V" sign..
Others: Ian (obsc), Peter S, Kin, Fat Chan, Kevin D, Bucket, Benoit,
Kevin McG, Peter C.

Allez oop!... Chris, Fat Chan, Kevin D, hold balanced while rest of us run
around to the other side....

.... keep holding her fellas!  Just a bit to go... Chris, Kevin D, and Pete C....
well rush round to the other side....

... and here we are... the other side, ready to ease her down...
"Wall jumping Jig" making sure she doesnt tip over...
Remind SS builders:  the paint-work is not to the waterline;
will do final painting to DWL, more varnish coats, at the Club

Made it!
After a march through the bushes of the public Central Park at Siena One.
Sitting in her cradle by the roadside, waiting now for the crane-truck.
Rocky, Kevin McL (obsc), Paolo, Peter S, Chris, PF, Ian, Pete C, Kevin D, Bucket,
Benoit, Kin, Wing, Wolfie, Fat Chan, Noel.

Kevin and Lucas, giving the thumbs up

From my study, Gabrielle peeks out from the roadsides through the bamboo..

Crane Truck, with wireless controller.  How cool is that!...

Crane truck, lifts Gabrielle and cradle, easy....


Bye bye Gabrielle.... sniffle, sniffle... sad to see her go....

A big "Thanks" to all who helped out on the move over 
the wall: much appreciated!
After the move above, beer, bubbly & pizza on the newly-cleared back yard.  Pleasant day and feeling of achievement all round as the task was completed with relatively little hassle.
Now to make the mold for the lead keel/ballast and to find a boom and mast for the sloop rig...
Comments from the day:
From Paolo, a boatbuilder of yore: "The most impressive thing about this, is that you finished her!".  Not quite finished yet, Paolo, still have lead keel to pour, and mast to find...
From Wolfie, wooden boat owner & restorer: "You did a pretty good job, for a first boat."!.... [Later: Yes Wolfie, which is why Id rather like to build another! Especially Id like to have another go at planking -- where I made the biggest errors on this one -- to get the spiling, and plank dimensions closer to ideal. Related: Ill to do a "Lessons learnt" Page (aka "mea culpa") in due course]

On another tack....
From Benoit: "It looks like you bought her, new, from the shop."! [Thanks Benoit, sweet, but not quite... I wish!]

At 4:10 pm, today: message from Noel: "... the boat is in the boatyard now."
And here she is...
And here she is, amongst friends.... back of the Ship Shop, RHKYC.

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Building a Norsaq

A Norsaq, or rolling pin as they are now commonly referred too, is a hunting tool used by the Aleuts and Inuits.  The carved wooden tool was primarily used to aid the throwing of a harpoon to hunt.  If the kayak was to roll over, the norsaq was used as a paddle to right the kayak. The Norsaq has become a popular accessory for the Greenland enthusiast as a rolling pin.
Here is my finished piece.  I had a short piece of 1/4" red cedar lying around from my boat build so decided to have a go.  Granted it is a bit dull looking compared to the ones on the market with vinyl inlays and contrasting woods, but this is all I had.
 I started off drawing the outline.  My design is a varied mix of styles.  Most Norsaq would have a hollow channel up the middle and two holes to house the harpoon.  As I will not be hunting whales I left this out.
Next I roughly used a jig saw to get the desired shape.  Traditional Norsaqs are also quite narrow.  As mine would be used primarily as a rolling tool I shaped it more like the end of a Greenland paddle.  The V in the top is for the thumb and the W at the bottom for my first three fingers from the pinkie.  The size of the paddle is two outstretched palms and one index finger from second knuckle to tip.  The width at the handle is three fingers.
Next I marked out the angles.  Simply rounded at the handle and sloping off to a point at the tip, much like a Greenland paddle.
Lots of plaining and sanding!
Attention to detail.  I drilled a finger sized hole for my index finger, a design used in some Norsaqs.
Drying out with four coats of boiled linseed and a few coats of varnish and I have a nice shinny Norsaq.  I think I will have a go at making some more traditional styles with some better wood in the future.    Now to try it out....
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Design 1974 Skimmer



This aluminum research vessel was built by Robert E. Derecktor of Fort Lauderdale, Florida for the University of Delaware. The boat is powered by twin GM 6V-53 marine diesel engines for a cruise speed of 13.5 knots and a range of 225 nautical miles. She was launched in 1970.



The boat is equipped for water sampling, towing plankton nets and dredges, handling bottom samplers for making grabs and cores, underwater cameras and current meters. It is designed to carry a crew of two and six scientists.





Here are the plans.





Principal Dimensions

LOA 41-10"

LWL 38-0"

Beam 13-0"

Draft 3-3"

Displacement 25,386 lbs





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PDF Plans Wood Boat Plans Flat Bottom How To DIY Plans UK USA Australia

How To DIY Plans UK USA Australia wood boat plans flat bottom

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Sea Chest Final Resting Spot


OK, Im getting kind of tired of the re-work, but I had to move my sea chest location once again. I had abandoned the first location as the intake was to small, increased the size of the intake and moved the sea chest to the area in front of the generator. After doing some assembly, I realized that the sea chest was going to be to close to the water line, and I want it a below the water line. I also felt that having it in front of the generator was going to be a pain in the ass, and Im sure Id be regretting it years down the road as I banged into it while servicing the generator. So, as much as it pained me, I moved the sea chest again. I turned it 90 degrees, and moved it another foot away from the generator.

During my recent visits to the scrap yards ( selling scrap metal), Ive been scrounging around for some for some 2" 316 stainless. No luck on finding some, so I had to break down and make a small purchase of some new material. Making sure all my parts were 316L was important to me so having to buy new material was not such a bad thing given I could assure quality.

The first line of business on the sea chest was building the manifold. I used a 12" piece of 2" along with two 1" x 4" nipples. I cut the nipples in half on my lathe so I ended up with the four pieces needed for my valves. Using a hole saw, I bored four holes in the 2"x12" nipple so I would be able to weld in the valve stubs. I was going to use a boring head to make the bores, but the hole saw did just fine by using the micro feed on my mill and running water on the bit to keep it cool.

Welding the 1" nipples in the manifold was pretty easy. I stood the 1" stubs on the work bench then lowered the 2" manifold on to the stubs and held the manifold up with blocks. This way I was able to keep the stubs plumb, level, and square with the manifold without having to come up with a clamping contraption. I tacked the stubs in place, then placed the manifold in the vice and welded her up. I made two passes around the each stub. I air tested the manifold to 40 psi and Ill be damned if it passed on the first try.

I bolted the stainless flange to the flange I welded into the hull, and just for kicks I tested to see if they were electrically isolated. The electric isolation test was good.

Ive yet to find a used 2" sea strainer, so Im unable to finalize the assembly. Im going to need to brace the manifold both vertically and horizontally, but I cant make the brace until I know the final location of the end after the sea strainer is in place. I also think I can lower the manifold 2" by using a close nipple vs the 4" nipple I have between the ball valve and the "T". Im going to keep my eyes open for another valve that with an overall length of 4" vs the 6" valves I have now. I really cant finalize any of this until I I have a sea strainer.

Im very happy with how the sea chest looks, and more happy with its location. This set up will be extremely easy to service and bring various water intakes on or off line as I need them. I went with a "T" vs a 90 on building the sea chest in case I had to blow a clog out of the intake while under way. I can screw a nipple down in to the "T" to get above the water line, and clear any thing away without having to get into the water. If I had used a 90, cleaning from the inside would be difficult at best.
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